Our taste-and-tell guide to some of the latest food and beverage openings in Charleston
Pancito & Lefty
After two years of recipe testing and several visits to kitchens in Mexico, chef Robert Berry, the opening chef at Indaco, and Jimmy Poole, co-owner of The Alley, are serving cantina fare at their new eatery, named after the Townes Van Zandt tune “Pancho and Lefty.” Housed in the former Zappo’s Pizza location on King Street, the interior is bright and airy, with succulent centerpieces, basket lanterns strung above punchy pink high-top chairs, and an open window framing the outside patio. The dishes are just as vibrant: guacamole topped with grasshopper salt (trust us: it’s tasty); battered fish tacos stuffed with pickled cabbage; and a spicy soup described as “Mexican pho” swimming with tender pork shoulder and fried pork rinds. Tequila and mezcal, a smoky spirit crafted in southern Mexico, are mixed into margaritas and creative cocktails at the bar. www.pancitoandlefty.com
Stella's
When The Westendorff owner Steven Niketas shuttered the relative newbie to the downtown dining scene last fall, he hadn’t given up; he just changed the concept, partnering with Johnny and Katrina Giavos to open a second location of their Richmond, Virginia, eatery renowned for its hearty Greek-American fare. The diner-style bars remain, but the space has been warmed with new lighting and decor and enlivened with Greek music. An immense menu offers many selections among the meze (apps), soups, salads, “comfort,” meat, fish, and sides. If you don’t know the difference between spanakopita, kreatopita, and tiropita, we suggest starting with the pikelia tasting platter, complete with the savory phyllo-wrapped meze plus pork souvlaki, dolmades, and tzatziki sauce. Be sure to share, as the portions, especially of the rich moussaka and pastichio, are enormous. www.stellascharleston.com
