The McCrady’s alums created a cozy, casual neighborhood spot in the former Lucca space
Vern’s
When two McCrady’s alums, fresh off a five-year stint in LA’s food scene, decide to open a restaurant in a building formerly occupied by a beloved trattoria, there’s bound to be buzz. By the time it opened this summer, Vern’s was the talk of the town in food circles, and for good reason. Husband-and-wife team Daniel and Bethany Heinze have reimagined the old Lucca space as a casual, convivial neighborhood spot. With a rustic hearth, vintage mirrors, cozy tables, and floor-to-ceiling glass doors that open onto the sidewalk, this sunny Cannonborough-Elliotborough corner feels more Left Bank than Holy City. Chef Daniel’s menu, too, takes a few cues from across the pond, but is firmly grounded in the ingredients inspiring him at the moment, like yellowfin tuna in a crudo with Calabrian chile; bitter lettuces in a salad showered with garlicky bread crumbs; fat clams kicked up with ’nduja in a bowl of al dente gemelli; and a juicy pork loin crisped to perfection and plated with creamy saffron mustard. The lively vibe of the place lends itself well to parties of four: Start with a few orders of warm, charred sourdough for the table and vermouth highballs all around before diving into the wines. Curated by Bethany with an eye toward bottles from “pioneers, renegades, and old-school producers” who take a low intervention approach to wine-making, the list is just as personalized as the menu. Lucky for us, the Heinzes are leading the way—all we have to do is score a reservation. vernschs.com
