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New & Notable: A nostalgic seafood spot opens on Sullivan’s, and chef Nico Romo debuts Laura, an ode to his Italian grandmother, in Summerville

New & Notable: A nostalgic seafood spot opens on Sullivan’s, and chef Nico Romo debuts Laura, an ode to his Italian grandmother, in Summerville
July 2022

Sample baked oysters and fried seafood baskets at Sullivan’s or opt for Laura’s fresh pasta and perfectly chewy Neapolitan pizzas





Sullivan’s Fish Camp

Equal parts ’70s time capsule and breezy beach  vibe, Sullivan’s Fish Camp, which opened on Middle Street in May, is a movie-set version of the sort of nostalgic seafood restaurants once frequented by vacationers up and down the East Coast. Tiffany-style light fixtures hang over the bar, barrel-backed pub chairs surround family-sized tables, and assorted maritime paraphernalia—seascapes, mounted trophy fish, a brass port hole—lend a salty feel. All your favorite throwback menu items are here as well, from baked oysters to fried seafood baskets, but with circa-2022 flourishes like the miso brown butter that dresses a warm lobster roll, peel-and-eat shrimp sourced down the road, and fried chicken that owes its crackly crust to duck fat. (No fancy upgrade needed for the stellar smoked fish dip.) Specialty cocktails lean fruity, frozen, and rum-splashed. And the wine and beer lists veer light and refreshing, featuring bubbles by the glass and Westbrook’s Crab Claw, a crushable lager made exclusively for Sullivan’s. sullivansfishcamp.com

Laura



Inspired by the culture and cuisine of his late Italian grandmother, Laura, renowned local chef Nico Romo unveils an elegant new restaurant on Summerville’s Main Street. Make reservations for a table in the formal dining room or on the large covered patio, or post up at the full-service bar that offers a view of the kitchen and custom red wood-fire pizza oven. The coursed menu is available for lunch and dinner, with impeccable antipasti such as citrus ricotta toast with mint and hazelnuts. You’ll also find perfectly chewy crusts on the Neapolitan pizzas (the Fungo, with mushroom ragout, pesto, and Parmesan, must not be missed), and fresh pasta on the “Primo” list, including classic cacio e pepe and a Bolognese served with pork belly, Italian sausage, peas, and Parmesan (left). Among the “Secondo” selections, the pork shank, braised until fall-of-the-bone tender and topped with lemon bread crumbs, is a hearty hit. Just be sure to leave room for the assortment of homemade gelati, cannoli, and creamy panna cotta dusted with biscotti crumbs. laurasummerville.com