Small Town Charm: Discover the Allure of Historic Summerville

Whether you’re of The Andy Griffith Show or Gilmore Girls vintage, there’s something nostalgic about a quaint town where everyone seems to know everyone and life bustles around a sunny square. While vestiges of that Rockwellian idyll can still be found in pockets of Charleston, the city has largely grown into more of a metropolis than a Main Street destination. So if you’re pining for a slice of small-town America, consider a jaunt up to historic Summerville.

Just a half-hour’s drive from the peninsula, “Flowertown” buzzes with locally owned restaurants, charming shops, and colorful recreational opportunities. While a Waffle House and Cracker Barrel flank the exit from I-26 onto North Main Street, strip mall shopping soon gives way to tree-lined streets before the road crosses the train tracks and runs smack into an oak-canopied green space. (Another perk? Plenty of free parking in angled street spots as well as an adjacent garage.)

The heart of this little hamlet, Hutchinson Square, forms the hub around which Summerville’s downtown life revolves. Bookended by Town Hall and a train depot-style pavilion, the village green is embraced by a collection of thriving mom-and-pop shops that spill enthusiastically onto the sidewalk with signs and seating. 

(Left) The “Birthplace of Sweet Tea” reclaimed the Guinness World Record for the “Largest (Sweet) Iced Tea” in June 2016. “Mason,” the massive container, can be found off Hutchinson Square; (Right) Wisteria climbs a pine tree in this circa-1930s Summerville postcard.

A Look Back

At a time when many small towns have been snuffed out, populated only with building shells and half-hearted real estate signs, historic downtown Summerville’s retail spaces stand mostly occupied. It’s a triumph that many merchants attribute to the “shop local” movement championed by Summerville DREAM (Downtown Revitalization Enhancement and Management), a nonprofit that’s worked to boost the community’s small businesses since 1992. Through collaborative efforts like Third Thursday (a monthly shindig on the square), the Summerville Farmers Market (open seasonally on Saturdays, rain or shine), and the Sweet Tea Festival (September’s celebration of the town’s claim to fame), this cohort keeps alive a thriving community of artists, makers, doers, and buyers.

A spirit of entrepreneurship has pulsed here since the 1800s, when Dr. Charles Shepard established the Pinehurst Tea Plantation, the country’s first successful commercial tea farm, using plants brought to America by French explorer and botanist André Michaux (and planting the seed for Summerville’s modern-day moniker, “The Birthplace of Sweet Tea”). After pine forests were cleared to make way for railroad tracks, villagers incorporated the town in 1847, and a year later, established an ordinance to protect its precious remaining trees. Then in 1888, the International Congress of Physicians in Paris declared Summerville one of the world’s two best places for treating lung disorders, due to the supposed healing powers of the trees’ turpentine scent. Innkeepers and hoteliers swiftly built accommodations in response to the influx of visitors and new residents. Thanks to the pines, this Lowcountry haven received a much-needed revival after an earthquake and subsequent fire destroyed much of the town square in 1886. (Thus, the sign above the square that reads “Let the Pine Be Sacred.”)

To really dig into Summerville’s history, stop off at the Timrod Library (217 Central Ave., thetimrodlibrary.org), in operation since 1897. Past the bell-topped door of the subscription library, you’ll discover rare and classic books, vintage reference volumes, a functional card catalog, checkout slips with handstamped due dates, and a healthy patronage of longtime Summervillians.

From its first inhabitants, Lowcountry plantation owners who came to “Pineland Village” to escape the summer heat, biting insects, and disease, Summerville’s population has now surged to more than 50,000 residents. But spend a day in the historic downtown, listening to citizens call out friendly greetings to any who arrive, and you’ll discover a burgeoning area that’s held onto its small-town charm with people as sweet as the tea. 

(Left to right) Cuppa Manna; Talucci’s Bakery & Simple Treasures.

Eat

All sorts gather inside Cuppa Manna (100-A S. Main St., cuppamanna.com) for a hit of caffeine and camaraderie. Inside the lively coffeehouse that’s dripping with whimsical animal art, retired gentlemen chirp at newspapers, regulars chat over bubble tea, young mothers tuck into couches and cappuccinos, and well-dressed professionals snag nitros to go. Prefer carbs with your coffee? Hit up Talucci’s Bakery (145 Central Ave., @taluccis__bakery), situated on the pedestrian walk known as “Short Central.” Inside the family-run establishment, brick-walled shelves and glass cases burst with flaky pastries, savory breads, and scrumptious treats from decorated Italian pastry chef Charles Talucci. Don’t miss the pistachio croissant.

Lunch options within Hutchinson Square include home cooking at Eva’s on Main scratch kitchen (129 S. Main St., evasonmain.com), smash burgers and craft suds at Frothy Beard Off World Brewery & Taproom (117 S. Main St., summerville.frothybeard.com), and pizza slices as big as your arm at Benny Mazzetto’s (111 S. Main St., bennysva.com). Or go old-school and grab a $2.75 chili dog with fresh-squeezed lemonade at Guerin’s, South Carolina’s oldest continuously operating pharmacy (140 S. Main St., guerinspharmacy.com). While there’s nothing particularly special about these beef dogs, the gal at the old-timey cash register attributes their tastiness to a steamed bun and the sweet-not-spicy, secret chili recipe from third-generation owner Barbara Dunning. 

For an afternoon pick-me-up, Swank Desserts (110-A S. Cedar St., swankdesserts.com) serves up dangerously indulgent sweets like luscious banana pudding by the pint and velvety chocolate brownies with Nutella and salted caramel. Or venture into Simple Treasures (116 S. Main St., simpletreasures.biz), the candy shop on “Little Main” marked by a fiberglass ice-cream cone. Order a malt milkshake, if that’s your thing, or sample their gourmet popcorn, crafted in every imaginable flavor, from loaded baked potato to cherry pie. 

For dinner, take it up a notch at one of downtown’s most popular fine dining establishments—each dubbed “the best in Summerville” depending on whom you ask. At Bexley Fish & Raw Bar (100 W. Richardson Ave., bexleysummerville.com), chef Jeremy Holst sources everything locally and regularly rotates his menu of regional Southern dishes. Chef Nico Romo, of Mount Pleasant’s Nico Oyster + Seafood and Bistronomy downtown, elevates the classic meals cooked by his Italian grandmother at Laura (101 N. Main St., laurasummerville.com). And La Rustica (315 N. Magnolia St., larusticamagnolia.com) delivers modern riffs on Italian recipes from chef Giuli Pellegrini in a lovely verandaed house setting. Just know it’s walk-in only for smaller parties and wait times can get lengthy (or go early to enjoy “Golden Hour” wine, frosé, and nibbles on the piazza).

For happy hour or post-dinner sipping, Accent on Wine (132 S. Main St., accentonwine.com) uncorks delicious pours from Italy, France, Spain, and California under the direction of sommelier Stephane Peltier (formerly the longtime somm of the now-defunct Woodlands Inn). Locals often gather after work at this inviting tasting room, snagging a charcuterie board and a table on the sidewalk. Just around the block behind a rich navy facade, The Azalea (219 S. Cedar St., theazaleabarandgarden.com) serves up a bright selection of clever cocktails in a cozy, speakeasy setting, made all the more moody with tufted velvet seating and live jazz piano music (check their social media for upcoming shows). 

(Left to right) Cotton Down South & Piazza Home.

Shop 

For the latest about town, start at Main Street Reads (115 S. Main St., mainstreetreads.com), a darling berth for 10,000 books and wise owner Shari Stauch. “Bookstores are a community,” she beams, and this indie shop serves as a beacon for locals with a regular agenda of author signings, book clubs, writers groups, and “storytelling with Auntie Leslie” (a Mr. Rogers-type children’s reading program with interesting neighbors). You might even bump into a local talent or two, like Summerville-raised fantasy adventure novelist Dorothy McFalls or historical fiction writer and resident Marissa Hale.

Just over a block down Richardson Avenue, inside the cottage shop Cotton Down South (206 W. Richardson Ave., cottondownsouth.com), you’ll find shabby-chic decor, a trucker hat bar, and the ever-bubbly owner Melinda Turner, a resident for 56 years who happily spills the tea on local lore. (Like how Scout Boats once fabricated a massive fiberglass Mason jar to hold the world’s largest sweet tea, a Guinness World Record-holding landmark that now stands sentry—perhaps appropriately—to the public bathrooms.) She also hand pours fresh-scented soy candles with names like “Azalea,” “Southern Magnolia,” and the unofficial town adage “Sweet Tea and Jesus.” 

For high-end interior goods, stop into nearby Laura Jones & Company (200 W. Richardson Ave., laurajonesandcompany.com) and French Mercantile (211 W. Richardson Ave., frenchmercantilehome.com), as well as Piazza Home on Short Central (127 Central Ave., piazzahomeinteriordesignsummerville.com). And take a moment inside the earthy-aired Soil and Soul Nursery Exotic Plant Shop (703 N. Magnolia St., @soulandsoulnurseryplantshop), where Marie Everidge shares her deep knowledge of ferns, tropicals, succulents, and air plants. Shops like Maggie Rose Southern Boutique (130 S. Main St., maggieroseboutiquesummerville.com)—try on the flashy straw hats hand-painted by local artist Lynn Karlson—and East Winds (134 S. Main St., eastwindsonline.com)—think wind chimes and casual knitwear—will resonate with Mayberry ladies, while the clothing and accessories at Simply Country Chic (138 S. Main St., facebook.com/SCCBSummerville) and Louise of Summerville (103-C S. Main St., @louiseofsummerville) cater to the trendier set. 

For edgier selections, journey just past the square to FLY Modern Apparel (114 E. Richardson Ave., flymodern-apparel.com) and Collaboration (113 W. 2nd St., @collaboration_by_jenn), which throw off rock ’n’ roll vibes. And if music is your jam, take a spin through the new and vintage vinyl at Black Circle Records (123 S. Cedar St., blackcirclerecordssc.com)—don’t miss the budget bins with LPs ranging from five bucks to free.

(Left to right) Soil and Soul Nursery Exotic Plant Shop & People, Places, & Quil.

Play

While there are a handful of tours available through the Summerville Visitors Center (402 N. Main St., visitsummerville.com), including a walking trek passing notable homes around Sumter Avenue and a limerick-led scavenger hunt for bird sculptures in shops throughout the historic district, community gathering spaces are the true gems of this town. 

At the nonprofit (read: free admission) Public Works Art Center (135 W. Richardson Ave., publicworksartcenter.org), an eclectic mix of works by talented regional artists fills three airy galleries, inviting visitors to immerse themselves in the vibrancy of the area’s art scene. Many of the works are for sale at extremely reasonable prices; journey downstairs to the studio hallway, and you’ll even encounter a “Pay What You Want” rack of petite pottery pieces. The idea for the center came from Diane Frankenberger longtime owner of the popular neighboring fabric emporium People, Places, & Quilts (129 W. Richardson Ave., peopleplacesquilts.com) and a 2024 recipient of the Governor’s Award for the Arts. Inspired by a newspaper article, she stitched together a team of local influencers, including executive director Jana Riley, to bring this black-and-white concept into living color in 2020. In addition to ever-rotating exhibits, resident studio space, and open mic nights, PWAC—colloquially pronounced “p-whack”—offers classes in pottery, drawing, painting, and sewing.

You can also find crafty sessions at Nailed It DIY Studio inside Simple Treasures candy shop and every so often at Frothy Beard Off World, which owner Michael Biondi calls a “community center that happens to serve beer.”

Weekenders may be able to catch a show at the James F. Dean Community Theater (133 S. Main St., flowertownplayers.org), where the Flowertown Players are gearing up for their 48th season. Inside a restored 1930s cinema with stadium-style seating for just under 200, this award-winning company delivers main stage shows like this spring’s British farce, Noises Off, with a cool cast of professionals and locals. Drama aficionados will also enjoy the Studio Spotlight Series staged in the more intimate black box theater.
Rain or shine, Summerville’s citizens turn out each Saturday morning from April through mid-November for the Farmers Market (218 S. Main St., summervilledream.org) behind Town Hall. Here, tented vendors sell fresh produce, cut flowers, farm eggs, local honey, artisanal cheeses, pasture-raised meats, and handcrafted goods while live musicians keep the party upbeat. And every third Thursday of the month, downtown retailers and restaurants stay open late as folks convene around Hutchinson Square for a festive evening studded with artisan booths, food trucks, and more live music.

Flowertown Bed and Breakfast, a circa-1889 Victorian mansion on Main Street.

Stay

Thinking of extending your visit? Whether you’re looking for Victorian charm, a private cottage, or something more down-to-earth, historic downtown is home to an array of welcoming B&Bs and rentals. Situated on two acres with award-winning gardens, The Linwood Inn (200 S. Palmetto St., linwoodinn.com) has hosted guests for 30 years at the circa-1883 manse built by Magnolia Plantation heiress Julie Drayton and her husband, William Hastie. Caroline’s Bed & Breakfast (705 S. Magnolia St., carolinesbedandbreakfast.com), Flowertown Bed & Breakfast (710 S. Main St., flowertownbandb.com), and Price House Cottage (224 Sumter Ave., pricehousecottage.com) also offer cottage stays near Azalea Park—host of April’s annual Flowertown Festival—while Chick Inn on Main (814 S. Main St., chickinnonmain.com) and Flowertown Charm (225 Stallsville Loop, flowertowncharm.com) promote urban farm living (fresh eggs and goat yoga, anyone?).

Flower Power

Blooming azaleas signal the return of the annual Flowertown Festival

For those that revel in a good fair atmosphere, April heralds the annual Flowertown Festival, a lively arts-and-crafts weekend punctuated by swaths of azaleas, dogwoods, and wisteria blossoms. Some 200,000 residents and visitors gather over three days (this year, April 4 to 6) to shop more than 200 specialty vendors, enjoy carnival entertainment, and take in live performances in and around the 12-acre Azalea Park. Hosted by the Summerville Family YMCA, the lively event generates millions of dollars of economic impact and helps support health and wellness programs in the community. summervilleymca.org/flowertown/